Ulysse Nardin diving series 3743-170-2A/0A watch Watches & Wonders new works, playing with complexity and innovative breakthroughs. Which one do you like best?
The 2025 "Watches & Wonders" Geneva Haute Horlogerie Exhibition ended successfully last month. The overall quality of new products this year is still very high. Many new watches have left a deep impression on people, such as the new Rolex Land-Dweller, which is highly discussed, and many new watches that focus on playing with complexity and innovation. There is indeed a feeling that I can't see them all among the many new watches. Today, I will talk to watch friends about three new works that I personally like at the watch exhibition.
Ulysse Nardin diving series 3743-170-2A/0A Product model: 3743-170-2A/0A Watch diameter: 44 mm Case thickness: 14.76 mm Movement type: automatic Movement model: UN-374 Case material: titanium/PA6/carbon fiber
At the annual Geneva "Watches and Wonders" watch exhibition, Ulysse Nardin never disappoints watch lovers around the world. This year, Ulysse Nardin once again broke the boundaries and broke the record with a 52-gram DIVER [AIR] diving watch, becoming the lightest diving watch on the market. Some time ago, I also saw a watch friend summarize what the top watchmaking brands with real strength are rolling in? It is to do research and development in the three directions of complex functions, ultra-lightness, and ultra-thinness, and to catch up with peers. However, it is easy to say, but it is extremely difficult to achieve any breakthrough innovation. Athens Watch's exploration of ultra-lightweight technology is also a six-year journey of improvement. Step by step, the weight of the 44mm DIVER diving watch, which started at 120.5 grams, was reduced to the limit of 52 grams.
And the conditions for achieving extreme lightweight of the watch, just like F1 racing, must first start with the material. For this reason, Athens Watch used light and strong titanium to create the 44mm case body. CarbonFoil carbon fiber is used as the bezel, and the side of the case is made of Nylo®-Foil nylon fiber material. This material is even more interesting. It is made of 60% Nylo® polyamide material and 40% carbon fiber, which can be lighter than its traditional carbon fiber material. The lightness of the shell parts is only the first step in making ultra-light watches. To make it lighter, the movement material must be worked on. Athens also uses titanium to build the movement. The new UN-374 movement weighs only 7 grams, and the titanium content in the bridge and main plate is as high as 90%. Athens has further deleted unnecessary movement structures. Just like the lightweighting of racing cars, the necessary movement parts have been lightened. The hollow spring box at 12 o'clock is the best example. At the same time, this also makes the hollow dial of the watch more transparent and beautiful.
Van Cleef & Arpels Poetic Complex Function Series VCARPERV00 Product Model: VCARPERV00 Watch Diameter: 38mm Movement Type: Automatic Case Material: Rhodium-plated White Gold
In fact, Van Cleef & Arpels will definitely have a place in the watch brands that we look forward to at the watch exhibition every year. Why do you say that? Because Van Cleef & Arpels is quite different from the mainstream mass-produced famous watch brands. Their watchmaking advantage is to break away from tradition and think of ways to make watches more interesting and romantic every year. This year, Van Cleef & Arpels has moved from the Lovers' Bridge to the new Lovers' Dance, which continues the romantic story of the couple on the Lovers' Bridge and makes a sequel. In the story depiction of the Lovers' Dance, the couple also came down from the bridge, depicting the story of the lovers' reunion. On the background of the dial, it is still shaped with the top traditional craftsmanship. Van Cleef & Arpels uses pure ink enamel and colorful ink enamel to create night and light and shadow respectively, and the cobblestone streets paved with K gold directly restore the romantic street scene of Paris. And this time, Van Cleef & Arpels is also based on the double retrograde display of the stars on the dial. The lovers are no longer retrograde pointers, but are made into jointed puppets for the lovers. The puppets will start by themselves at 12 o'clock every day, or through the buttons on the side of the watch.
There is also a time difference between the two starting methods. You can use the button to let the two people interact at any time, and the lovers approach each other and kiss. However, the interaction time between the two people is shorter when the button is used. It is only about 12 seconds. If it is started naturally at 12 o'clock, they will meet each other, and the kissing time is longer, which is three minutes. VCA not only retains the fun of playing with watches that everyone wants to see and experience the complex mechanism of dolls anytime and anywhere, but also retains the romantic atmosphere of the reunion of lovers after a long separation in the love story. And technically speaking, it is more difficult. Van Cleef & Arpels has made two sets of operation trigger mechanisms for the dolls, with different time lengths, and one is self-starting.
Roger Dubuis King Series DBEX1174 Product Model: DBEX1174 Watch Diameter: 45mm Movement Type: Manual Mechanical Movement Model: RD118 Case Material: Pink Gold
At the end of the article, let's end with a heavyweight three-question perpetual calendar tourbillon watch. Roger Dubuis also ushered in its important 30th anniversary this year. On the occasion of this anniversary, it brought back the most classic double retrograde design at the previous time exhibition and released two heavyweight new works. One of them is the King series super complex function watch that combines three, ten thousand, and ten thousand. It is no exaggeration to say that this watch is directly benchmarked against the pinnacle of Jaeger-LeCoultre's super complex ball rotor, VC loft craftsman, PP5316. Moreover, Roger Dubuis is used to making unique designs and functions. For example, even if the watch still uses Roger Dubuis's hollow dial full of modern artistic beauty, this time it is slightly tilted to the right as the movement is tilted slightly, like the double retrograde perpetual calendar design is also tilted by 1°. The fan-shaped sub-disc on the left beats the rhythm of the week, and the date display on the right forms a subtle visual balance with it, directly pushing the hollow art to a new level. The iconic Celtic cross tourbillon, which is often called the battle axe tourbillon by watch friends, is placed at the center of the 5 and 6 o'clock positions on the disk.
As for the timekeeping function of the watch, RD has always insisted on making the magic sound three questions, and specially adjusted the sound effect of the spring to "three full tones", using this very discordant interval to produce a miraculous effect. Not only is the timekeeping crisp, but it also creates a sense of oppression compared to the regular questioning watch during the timekeeping stage. This is the difference between the magic sound three questions. In order to shape the magic sound three questions, Roger Dubuis used cobalt-chromium alloy for the key gong material of the questioning watch. Under such an exaggerated and cool appearance, the inside of this watch is also Roger Dubuis's insistence on traditional craftsmanship. In order to accommodate three large complex functions, the RD118 movement has as many as 684 parts, but each part, even if it is hidden in the most hidden corner, has been carefully crafted by the watchmaker to meet the strict requirements of the Geneva Seal.
Summary: I have introduced the three new watch exhibitions that I personally like. I chose them for two reasons. One is that they are really breakthroughs, whether it is Ulysse Nardin using materials and movement strength to make the lightest diving watch, or VCA continuing the romantic story with real dolls, or Roger Dubuis giving the classic functional design a new look. Another reason is that the watch is interesting enough. In fact, I think that making a watch good-looking and having excellent performance can be accomplished as long as you are willing to spend time and effort, but it is more difficult to make a watch that makes people feel that the watch is interesting, want to see it again, and can keep playing with it. Of course, the three models I chose are just based on my personal taste. I will share them with you briefly. If you are asked to choose your three favorite new watches, I wonder what you will choose?